everything you need to know to plan your next holiday

Sicily is one of the more unique and diverse places in the world. While this island and its archipelagos are technically part of Italy, Sicily is actually closer to mainland Africa than it is to Rome.

Sicilians have their own language, their own food, their own architecture and their own rich and storied culture that spans thousands of years. Some of the first evidence of human civilisations can be found in this special part of the world. The origins of the cyclops myth are found here. And of course, it is home to Europe’s largest active volcano, Mount Etna.

If you’re planning a trip to this special region, here is what you need to know.

Popular destinations

Mainland Sicily

Palermo

The capital of Sicily, this is a bold city perfect for those who truly want to immerse themselves in the grit and character of Sicily. Watch as the architecture blends North African Moorish techniques with European (in a style called Arab-Norman), and see how the cuisine spans everything from cous cous, fresh seafood and cannolis. There are plenty of accomodation options, from high-end hotels to B&Bs.

Catania

The closest city to Mount Etna and the second largest in Sicily. This place can come as a culture shock to some – vibrant street markets and whizzing and chaotic traffic are part of life here. Catania also very much runs on “Sicilian time” so make sure you’re prepared to relax your schedule and go with the flow. Many Mount Etna tours start from this city, and it is well worth getting a guide (rather than DIY) as the history and mythology of the region are both fascinating.

Siracusa

Arguably one of the most beautiful coastal destinations on the Sicilian mainland, Siracusa also happens to be packed with some of the most interesting ancient history you’ll find in Sicily. Situated on the Eastern coast, the Greek influences in this region make themselves known in the architecture, which includes an ancient theatre dating back to 500 BC. The archaeological park, the Duomo and the Tempio di Apollo are all must-sees. But its not just for history buffs, ocean lovers will also have nothing to want. This city has stunning Ionian teal-toned water, and plenty of shores to enjoy it from.

Taormina

Most probably know this beach-side town thanks to The White Lotus. I visited in 2018 before the series came out, so I’m not sure how much it’s changed. But I remember an idyllic holiday town with dramatic hills, rugged flora and breath-taking coastlines. This is a place that was certainly set up for tourism, with a number of hotels and plenty of places to rent recreational water equipment.

1/2 Isola Bella, Taormina

Noto

This little inland town is famed for its unparalleled Baroque architecture. It entered public consciousness as it played host to a scene in Monica Vitti film L’Avventura. This scene was the inspiration for one in The White Lotus where Audrey Plaza’s character also visits Noto. This is an elegant and often quieter town compared with other Sicialian hubs. It makes a great day trip, or a longer stay for those wanting to soak up the culture and pace of this wholly unique locale.

Scopello

Scopello is probably most famous for playing host to the hotel Tonnara Di Scopello and some of Sicily’s most recognisable rugged, coastal scenery. It is very small and with limited public transport, so you will need a car if you’re planning to pay a visit to the iconic coastline in this tiny village.

Cefalu

Even if you’re not familiar with the name, you would have seen pictures of this breathtaking Sicilian town. Whitewashed buildings with terracotta roofs hug the coastline of this tiny town, where crystalline teal waters lap right at the edges of the walkways and pedestrian paths. While most people probably venture here for the coastal scenery, it is also a destination rich with history and incredible architecture including its Duomo which is UNESCO World Heritage listed.

Trapani

Trapani is a district that includes places like Cefalu and close islands like Favignana and Levanzo. The district’s hub is Trapani City, a unique destination in the way that is perfectly mixes coastal beauty with exquisite cityscapes. Trapani has a vibrant old town filled well-preserved stone buildings and stained glass. But beach-goers will be wowed by its stoney, palm-lined shores where you’ll still find remnants of the salt production that agriculturally sustained this city. It makes a great hub to explore some of the islands and smaller villages, and while it is still a smaller town, it’s large enough to be reached by public transport.

Marsala

A town made famous for its iconic fortified wine, Marsala is a must-visit for foodies. You can pick and choose cellars to visit or you can make a day of it and book a tour. It falls within the Trapani district and therefore shares many of the same aesthetic features of the other towns of this region. Since it’s only 45 minutes South of Trapani City, it can be visited on a day trip, or it can provide a base for you to visit some of the closer islands.

The Islands

Before you set off on a Sicilian island adventure, just know that many of these islands are not set up for tourism in the same way that the mainland is. There are few hotels, but you should try your best to stick to these hotels rather than short-term apartment rentals. Short-term apartment rentals can decimate areas like these, forcing locals (who often have a lower socio-economic capacity compared with tourists) from accessing housing on their own island.

My family are from the tiny island of Salina in the Aeolian archipelago. Travel and tourism is a wonderful way to learn about other cultures and develop a deeper respect for one another. If you do decide to patron the islands on a day trip or even stay a night or two, you will be most welcome. But please visit with the respect and the understanding that island life is very different to other places.

The Aeolian Islands

These are part of a volcanic archipelago off Sicily’s Northern coast, and includes islands like Salina, Lipari and Stromboli. The volcanic history of these islands means the sand and rock formations have a black-ish tone and come with dramatic hills that plunge straight into some of the most beautiful waters on Earth. Hop between these unique islands by hydrofoil, join a tour or charter your own; whichever way you choose, these islands are best seen and explored by boat.

The Aegadian Islands

These islands are popular as they are some of the easiest to reach, just off the West and technically still within the Trapani province. The three main islands are Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo. As well as being easy to get to, they’re also some of the most beautiful Sicilian islands, making these an excellent choice for first-timers to Sicily. You can visit these on a day trip, but there are plenty of accomodation options on Favignana if you want to live the full island fantasy.

The Pelagie Islands

This archipelago is made up of just three islands and represent the Southernmost destination in Italy, around 100km off the coast of Africa. Only two – Lampedusa and Linosa – are inhabited, while Lampione remains wild. While particularly remote, these islands are uniquely stunning with yellow-toned rocky outcrops and turquoise waters. Lampedusa has a small airport, or you can take a five-hour ferry from the mainland. And, while you won’t find as many accomodations as on islands like Favignana, there are some stunning options to suit even the fussiest of travellers.

Pantelleria

This island is off the South Coast of Sicily but separate to the Pelagie Islands, it’s grown in popularity in recent years thanks to it’s uniquely rugged landscapes – and since it was the setting for Luca Guadagnino’s film A Bigger Splash. This is an island truly about enjoying the surrounds of nature. Be ready to slow down and live on island time.

Ustica

This island sits off the North of mainland Sicily. While it sits a fair way West of the Aeolian Islands, it shares the same black-hued beauty as it also has volcanic origins. Ustica is unique in that the waters that surround it are designated as marine reserves, as a result, this is a popular destination for snorkelers. There are some incredible caves, hikes and swimming spots in Ustica but there is not much in the way of museums or shopping. This is definitely a destination for nature lovers.

How many days do you need in Sicily?

How long is a piece of string? The major cities can be skimmed over in one day, but for a more in depth experience three full days is ideal. Especially for Catania where you will need to give over one full day to Mount Etna.

As for the islands and beachy destinations, it depends on how long you would like to lay out a relax. For some, three to four days is enough for a beach holiday, others may prefer two weeks. It’s up to you.

If you’re looking to get a thorough taste of Sicily inside of two weeks, a great itinerary could be:

3 nights in Palermo
2 nights in Catania
3 nights in Taormina or Siracusa
6 spent island hopping OR 3 nights in Cefalu and 3 nights in Scopello

When is the best time to go?

This depends on the weather you like – warm or cool. Bearing in mind Sicily’s proximity to Africa, it is extremely hot in August. I wouldn’t recommend going during this month unless it’s the only time you can get off. And if that’s the case, stay out of the cities and keep to the coast. July is more tolerable, but can still be very, very hot!

June and September are both pleasantly hot with plenty of 30 degree days, warm water, but fewer chances of extreme heatwaves. Shoulder seasons have very mild and pleasant weather and have arguably better holiday conditions than summer. In the spring season, water temperatures will be rather fresh and not as comfortable to swim in. Autumn is the better shoulder season for swimming.

Winter is a great time to visit if you want to explore the cities and countryside. Sicilian winters are relatively mild with daytime highs of around 15 degrees. This is excellent weather for meandering through winding city streets without heat fatigue.

Getting around

Walking and public transport

Once you’re in a city, the best way to get around is always to walk. I am also a shameless fan of an open-top bus tour. I did one of these in Palermo and found it to be a great way to get around and also learn more about the city.

Major cities like Palermo and Catania have their own public transport systems which includes a metro line and many buses. I found it quite reliable, even if the traffic is sometimes dicey. There are also plenty of cabs.

Trains across the mainland

If you are looking to visit a few different places during your trip, Sicily’s train system was excellent. Catching the train from Palermo to places like Catania, Taormina and Siracusa is easy and fast. This would be the way I recommend exploring the mainland.

Renting a car

You can also rent a car if you would like to drive around. But, if this is the option you choose, you really should get the full and top level of insurance (even if it is an extra 20 or 30 Euros per day). I would also advise that if you have a car, you need underground, lock-up parking in major cities like Catania and Palermo. The couple staying in the room next to us at our Catania hotel had their rental car stolen. That is not stress that you need to deal with while on holiday.

A great middle ground is to catch the train between major destinations and then rent a car or scooter in places like Cefalu, Taormina or Siracusa. And this is the option I chose. We used the train to get to all cities and then got a small scooter to explore Taormina and beat some of the hills.

Italy now requires all international visitors to have a physical copy of both their local license and an international license. It must be a physical copy, digital is not accepted.

Keep cash for taxis

The last time I visited in 2018, cash was still very much an essential. Many taxis did not accept card and Uber was not as widely accessible. This has likely changed, but regardless I would still keep cash on you at all times.

If the taxi is not metred, make sure you agree on a price before you get into the car.

Most famous hotels

Tonnara Di Scopello

This hotel has been instagram famous for years, but it rose to further prominence when CharliXCX chose it as the location for her wedding. Book well in advance.