Touted as the culinary capital of France and ranking as the country’s third-largest city, Lyon is a strangely overlooked European destination for the Australian traveller. But in my recent month flitting around the country, I traversed Paris, Chamonix, Lyon and Toulouse.
It was refreshing to experience somewhere akin to Paris (my most adored place abroad) but distinctly different. Lyon feels highly walkable, less chaotic, bursting with affordable itinerary additions, and coloured in generally more pastel hues. It’s also home to a curious, giant metallic tower built in 1894, modelled on the upper level of the Eiffel Tower. A stroll over the Saône river is superb on a Sunday when markets spill out on its perimeter. Praline and pâté and other Lyonnais delicacies are abundant, and the emphasis on food and wine feels more old-world here.
There are gorgeous hilltop bars (after many flights of stairs) overlooking a sprawling city, and a considered list of cool haunts to tick off when you know where to look. One word of warning is the sheer heat of Lyon in the summertime, as it happens to broil even more than Paris in peak season.
These are some of the most darling and delicious things to do on your first visit to the gastronomic pinnacle.
For coffee…
Crema: This is such a sleek stop for a morning coffee and a perch on a steel street-side stool. Industrial-cool interiors, friendly staff, a resident dog etc make it a bit of a unicorn on the contemporary café scene. Relish very aesthetically served coffees and tiny complimentary granola morsels on the side.
Grains: More of a grab-and-go hole in the wall haunt to add to your list when embarking on a big day of plans, or to splice up those plans with a caffeine surge. Definitely snag an iced latte here and feel a little closer to home standards.
Caillou Cafe Comptoir: Vibey and community-driven, Caillou is a warm hug in café form. A quick look at their socials will lure you in, and will make you want to linger for hours. There’s kaleidoscopic tiling, steel shelving, fresh baked goods, a cavernous-like ceiling and timber accents galore. This is vying for the most design-forward brunch spot in Lyon.
For dinner or a drink (or both)…
Brasserie Georges: Imagine the electricity of a 500-person dining institution, while still receiving lightning-speed service and noticing how oddly intimate it all feels. Sample traditional plates and something on the adventurous side (I tried tripes, mon dieu). From your seat, gaze up at a live band staged on the floating mezzanine, all tuxed-up and playing fabulous live music to set the tone. This was the kind of scale and ambiance we haven’t yet emulated in Melbourne or Australia-wide.
Micro Sillon: An elevated choice for afternoon or evening lo-fi wines (or beers) and curated snacks. Sit outside in a fairy light-laden front courtyard, order some cheese and bread and start to ease into the evening.
Barabaar: A great launch-pad for your night, or a no-fuss afternoon aperitif option. You can see Lyon twinkling in the distance, too. The vista of the city from here is worth the wait when it’s bustling and it’s where a lot of young hot people congregate.
For lunch…
Les Ventres Jaunes: In Vieux Lyon (the Old Town), there are an overwhelming number of long lunch spots to choose from on the cobblestoned Place Neuve Saint-Jean. Look for the yellow facade of this quintessential bouillon and park yourself for hours. We savoured beef tartare, rosé and endless people watching.
Dragon Lyon: For the part of the trip when you’re 89% baguette, a brief intermission from local fare can be found at Dragon. Order a vermicelli bowl, some gyoza and allow your tastebuds a much-needed reset. Such flavourful and fresh food on a cosy backdrop.
For a day trip to Beaune…
Interrail ticket: I had an Interrail pass throughout my trip to seamlessly bop between cities and side quests. Secure a ticket to Beaune in Burgundy (Chardonnay country) and take the easiest 90-minute-ish train of your life to arrive in a very charming town. It’s an expedition in the name of eating and drinking and that’s about it.
Caves Madeleine: An utterly reverent lunch. Sit in the backyard if it’s nice outside — it’s so whimsical and leafy and perfect. A three-course meal for €29 (just under $50) is unheard of in Australia, and the plating was artistry. I was enamoured by the mussels for mains and the wine list is nothing short of stupefying. Prepare to accidentally spend a small eternity here.
Domaine Chanson and Patriarche: These are two great ideas post-meal for your viticulture education. At the former, explore the wine ‘caves’ and venture through ancient underground labyrinths containing endless bottles of local drops honed over centuries.
For where to stay and what to do…
Croix-Rousse: As informed by my local expert, this is an idyllic neighbourhood for discerning people who are interested in great food, wine, fashion and design. It feels like a mini pocket of style in a vast and diverse city.
Basilica de Fourvière: Take the funicular from Vieux Lyon up to the Basilica de Fourvière and admire the jaw-droppingly beautiful old church. It’s a huge white basilica sitting high on Fourvière Hill, overlooking the entire city. Outside, there are the most breathtaking views of Lyon to revel in.
Pastries from Pralus: Make sure to acquire a praline-studded pastry here. Pink praline is a Lyonnais staple, so you’ll notice shards of the vivid sugar-coated nuts scattered through tarts, brioches and pastries all over town.
