In partnership with Hong Kong Tourism Board
Waking up on my first morning in Hong Kong, I went for a run around the bay. I love arriving somewhere late at night, it feels like the silhouettes of the city reveal themselves slowly, more gently. You also get to feel the pulse of the night, awake and in full swing as a first impression. It’s my favourite way to travel.
I decided to take a slow walk back to the hotel with my water bottle, drinking in the vast beauty of Victoria Harbour. For some reason, I started to think about the love story that unfolded on this very body of water, between Kylie Minogue and Michael Hutchence, 38 years ago. Michael was born in Sydney but spent time living here as a kid. I imagined the magic of first love in a place like Hong Kong, between two people a universe away from home. Yet Michael would have been so familiar with the metropolis, and exploring a new city with someone you love – who already knows it well – is a gift within itself.
I imagined how the city must have shifted between then and now, and that there must also be elements unchanged. Although we are living in a different world on the timeline, it felt recognisable today compared with when I first visited 10 years ago. Hong Kong carries a powerful energy that feels enduring. Such natural beauty, right next to the fourth most densely populated neighbourhoods on the planet. You can be with everyone and then all of a sudden, in an abundance of solitude.
I went into an electrical store moments later to buy some batteries for my camera and was surprised to hear an INXS song playing softly over the sounds of the fans cooling the space. My first thought was, What are the chances?, followed closely by a feeling of nostalgia (for a time I wasn’t alive). Both times I have visited this city, it has felt like anything could happen. Although there are fewer neon signs than there were here in 1988, that enchantment is ever-present.
“Hong Kong carries a powerful energy that feels enduring. Such natural beauty, right next to the fourth most densely populated neighbourhoods on the planet. You can be with everyone and then all of a sudden, in an abundance of solitude.”
I visited at the perfect time of year – Art March. I caught the Star Ferry over to Wan Chai. Making my way up the Convention Centre driveway felt like a scene out of an 80s Jackie Chan movie. Seeing so many red taxi cabs lined up in one place made me happy; a sensory delight I need a new verb for. If I could own any car, it would likely be one of these. It would both run forever and look great forever. Driving gloves included.
Stepping into the orb of Art Basel, I felt my heart jump – how am I supposed to follow the map in a logistically sensible way? I felt like a child on a lolly hunt at an 8th birthday party. I felt like I was racing (against myself?) to find the pieces that you only see a couple of when visiting the big and small galleries in cities like Paris and New York. It’s all there, in one place. It is easy to miss so many amazing stalls and works, so taking a few hours to get lost, just to wander and let the pieces find me, made sense. In between floors, I took an intermission from the melting pot for an artist talk with artists Coco Capitán and Jiang Qiong’er. It felt like just the right spark of inspiration to keep me hungry for more.
Visiting M+ Gallery in West Kowloon was another highlight, especially as I ascended the rooftop stairs after sundown to see the city skyline illuminated in pink by the glittering façade of the Herzog & de Meuron designed building. The gallery houses one of the most comprehensive contemporary Chinese collections in the world, spanning design, visual art, moving image and architecture. The Isamu Noguchi placements were a favourite – both the light sculpture collection – a multi-year installation that rotates and evolves over time; and the Playscape sculptures in the outdoor garden, where physical interaction is encouraged.
It goes without saying that the food in Hong Kong can cure any malady, and perhaps my favourite thing about this city is that I would say you don’t particularly need a plan to find the dream. I believe we are becoming a little too familiar with digital bookmarks and recommendations in modern travel. One of the best meals I had on this trip was at a handmade dumpling house right around the corner from my hotel. The Guangzhou-born chain Yuan Ji is famous for its chilli oil dumplings (or so I read after eating there several times). Sometimes you need a list, but often you only need a bit of intuitive roaming to find your holy grail meal – especially when jetlag might mean your thirst for the most succulent Cantonese food comes out of nowhere. Another dining favourite was Luk Yu Tea House for dim sum, where the walls were pink and the lights at my booth were dimmable.
“It goes without saying that the food in Hong Kong can cure any malady, and perhaps my favourite thing about this city is that I would say you don’t particularly need a plan to find the dream.”
On the morning before I left, I visited the Mong Kok flower market. I loved seeing the local bloom dealers thriving for the weekend trade and I will usually seek out a flower market when I am traveling to remind me of the seasons and what’s on offer in that part of the world. The other bonus was many beautiful local cats sunbathing on the market tables and in the windows.
It would be a personal felony to my longstanding dedication to shopping not to visit at least one second-hand designer spot while in town. So, my last port of call (which I placed time restrictions upon, for the safety of bank account) was HULA, on Hollywood Road, part of a chain of several stores throughout the city (and sadly, for my bank account, also available on the internet). It didn’t take me long to find and snap up a beautiful Phoebe-era Céline dress like a crocodile.
As I gathered my things to head to the airport, I felt like all the visual inspiration and gustatory sensations I longed for had been itched, knowing full well I had barely scratched the surface. You can both visit on a stopover going elsewhere for a couple of days or stay weeks and feel satisfied. Next time I visit, I hope to get to some of the 250 islands that neighbour the city to explore the many pristine beaches and seafood feasts.
Visit the Discover Hong Kong website to find out more about the Hong Kong Arts March and to explore Hong Kong’s vibrant street art scene.
Looking for more? Check out exhibiting artist Nabilah Nordin’s guide to Hong Kong Art March, or meet the minds behind Hong Kong Arts Month’s street takeover.
Feature image (left): Isamu Noguchi, Akari F, M+ Museum.
