Mallorca hardly needs introducing and as of late, few European summer destinations have occupied quite as much social media real estate. Between coveted coves, honey-toned towns and curated boutique hotels, the island has found itself at the centre of countless itineraries.
Avoiding both peak tourist season and an unforgiving heatwave, I swapped a hotel stay for my sister’s spare bedroom in Santa Ponça. Nic has spent a total of 10 years living in Mallorca. She’s the author of SOL, a love letter to Balearic architecture, and a multidisciplinary artist with a discerning eye.
Here is everything we did, saw and ate while on the island…
Santa Ponça
Santa Ponça probably won’t feature on many first-time Mallorcan itineraries, and that was the best part about it. While the area is home to plenty of resort hotels, most visitors appeared to avoid the Mediterranean altogether, opting for a chlorinated pool over what one would assume was the reason they’d flown there in the first place…
Most mornings began with a walk and a swim, or a trip to NU, a zero-waste organic grocery shop and cafe in the heart of Santa Ponça serving excellent breakfast, chai and kombucha. Cala Blanca was where we swam. Tucked into neighbouring Costa de la Calma, the rocky cove is fitted with ladders into the sea and a diving board. The water is clear, and you can while away hours watching the fish. My niece Leila works as a guide at the local Rancho. I joined her for a horse trek through the forest. If you ride, make time for this as it offers an entirely different perspective of the island.
Santanyí
We drove to Santanyí via Santuari de Cura, a former monastery perched atop Puig de Randa, the highest point in central Mallorca. The drive isn’t for the faint of heart, but the reward is one of the island’s most spectacular viewpoints. At 543 metres above sea level, the monastery looks out across Mallorca in every direction.
Find a table beneath the trees and order pa amb oli with cheese and a plate of olives. From there, continue to Santanyí, if you want to swim, try to arrive before 11am when the beaches begin to fill. Park in town and wander the maze-like streets before spending an hour or two at La Nouvelle Famille. As much a neighbourhood hangout as it is a café, wine bar and store, it’s probably worth booking ahead if you’re visiting in peak season. We ordered orange wine and salad alongside salty crisps with burrata and local honeycomb. Don’t miss the little store inside for illustrated T-shirts, including a custom collaboration with Carhartt WIP, wine and ceramic horse-head bottle stoppers.
Fundació Miró
Tears! Set within the studios where Joan Miró lived and worked for almost 30 years, Fundació Miró lingers in the heart long after leaving. Miró’s splattered studio tiles, incomplete canvases and cabinets of clutter feel as though he’s just stepped out of the room to refresh his coffee. Allow longer than you think you need for this.
Around a 20-minute drive from the gallery, El Peñón is where we spent the rest of the day. Order the paella and a bottle of wine, then wander to the beach. Grab a mojito from the first boardwalk kiosk on the right and spend the afternoon swimming alongside the locals.
Palma
We ditched our rental and caught the bus from Santa Ponça into Palma. It’s fast, inexpensive and saves the headache of finding a park in the city. Arrive before the crowds and head straight to Fornet de la Soca for pastries before wandering through Mercat de l’Olivar. Buy basket bags and kitchenware, then take a stool at Mercat Negre. There are no traditional menus here. The chef cooks until you tell him to stop. Afterwards, stock up on as much melon, jamón and Gilda as you can manage before tackling the city’s streets.
An icy horchata from Alaska Bar Kiosk is the perfect excuse to slow down before an afternoon at Es Baluard Museu d’Art Contemporani. Don’t miss the sculpture terrace and sweeping views across the city.
We spent the afternoon drifting between WunderWorkshop for cacao, SILK for vintage fashion, Arquinesia (heaven) for perfume and Bar Martin for coffee and sparkling water before making our way to Cortana (a must). We ended the day at La Rosa Vermutería & Colmado with octopus and a glass of white wine.
Deià
Whether you’re staying the night or simply passing through, Hotel Corazón is worth building your morning around. Have breakfast overlooking the mountains before driving into Deià. Finding a park is easier said than done, but once you’ve managed it, visit Robert Graves House before wandering in and out of the ceramic studios lining the village’s main street.
De Moniö is a must for tea, cake and a browse. Cala Deià is an obvious choice for a swim. If that’s your priority, go early and do everything else in reverse, ending with drinks and dinner at Corazón.
